The entire ride up until Real de Catorce had been going so smoothly, so I presumed that the final 550 miles home would proceed just the same. I would make it less than 200 miles before I encountered the first of a long series of problems getting home. More... + 5 - 5 | § ¶2/18/2007 -- Towards Home
That last night of my journey I rejoined my travelling companions for dinner. Afterwards we enjoyed some Mexican wine and shared in one of my most favorite activities. There is a certain perspective on life that most travellers share, and I love to soak up as much as I can from people I meet on the road. Something about a group of individuals out on their own with nothing to lose, open minded, full of life, coming together spontaneously to share of themselves. I don't think there is a better way to learn more about your own life than by taking in how others live theirs. More... + 4 - 4 | § ¶2/17/2007 -- Real de Catorce
High above Real are the mine ruins, remnants of the silver boom that was responsible for the settling of Real. The road used to be paved with hand laid cobblestone but decades of neglect and exposure to the elements have reduced it to a rough and tumble goat trail.
Sounds like a perfect day of exploration for me and the XR. More... + 7 - 3 | § ¶2/15/2007 -- Real de Catorce
My new friends and I decided to hike out to Mount Quemada, the sacred ritual mountain top for the Huicholes. This indiginous tribe is the only group to resist conquering by both the Aztecs and the Spanish, and they still live much the way they have for centuries. Every April they make a 400km pilgrimage through the desert below up to this mountaintop. Along the 20 day hike they gather peyote buttons for use in sacred offerings and visions. This was a very special place we were hiking up to. More... + 6 - 3 | § ¶2/14/2007 -- Real de Catorce
The road from Zacatecas up to Real de Catorce cuts through the high deserts of the altiplano. My destination, the small colonial mining town popularized in the movie "The Mexican", is cradled 9,000' up in the sparse Sierra Coronados. The turn off of the main highway puts you on a road that seems to lead nowhere. No houses, no farms, nothing. Once off of the concrete path you are greeted with the last 20 miles of hand laid cobblestone that leads up into the mountain range. At the end of this road is a mile and a half long tunnel that cuts straight through the mountain top and is the only direct access to Real. More... + 5 - 5 | § ¶2/11/2007 -- Zacatecas
Because of the scarcity of space in Guanajuato, I had to leave my bike parked outside right in front of the hostel. I wasn't too worried about it disappearing, but it was still a relief to see the XR waiting on the day I was going to Zacatecas.
The plan was to find my way out of the maze of tunnels that undercut the city, and then head downhill to the Christo Rey. This is a huge bronze statue placed on a mountain top outside of Guanajuato that is said to be located at the exact geographic center of Mexico. What better thing to have at the very heart of your country than a huge dude on a cross.
5 minutes into the ride I noticed an unusual vibration. Now, the XR vibrates horrendously all the time, but this one was new and different. I tried to ignore it as long as possible, but once up to highway speeds the handlebars began to shake and it was slightly unsafe. I leaned over one side to glance at the front wheel and I immediately noticed something amiss. Some menacing shadow was flying around the inside of my wheel. More... + 7 - 4 | § ¶2/10/2007 -- Guanajuato
The day before I left for Zacatecas I went to the Museo Momias. On the outskirts of town there is a cemetary that over the years has become quite full. To make room for the newly deceased, old graves are dug up when the survivors can no longer afford the upkeep on the gravesight. Because the volcanic soils are so alkaline, decomposition never fully takes place and a percentage of bodies are very well preserved. So why not put the bodies on display and make a few pesos? More... + 6 - 4 | § ¶2/8/2007 -- Guanajuato
Before I left Guadalajara I looked over the bike just in case something else had gone wrong. To my dismay, my $40 chain had already stretched extensively. When it was brand new it was just short of the right length so that I could have the adjusters run all the way in. This meant I knew it wouldn't be long before I would have to have a link cut out. I just didn't think it would be in a few days. More... + 3 - 4 | § ¶2/7/2007 -- Guadalajara
I woke up early to take advantage of the day. It was refreshing to not be in a hurry. Afterall, this was my vacation, right?
I went to the Instituto Cultural de las Canañas at the far end of the plaza. This huge building has something like 53 internal courtyards and at different times through history has served as an orphanage, prison and army barracks. During the stroll over I was confronted with street peddler after performer after artist trying to convince me to hand over money. I've found that since Mexican culture is so inherently polite (it can be considered quite rude to say the word "no" to a question or request, and Mexicans will go far out of their way to avoid it -- even if it means lying and saying "yes") I've strived to perfect the art of worming my way out of these situations. I told one particularly aggresive artista that I really like her artwork but I had to meet someone in the museum and I would find her on the way out. Of course, I ducked out the side entrance after the museum and was on my way. This sort of subterfuge and diversion suits me, I think. More... + 5 - 3 | § ¶2/6/2007 -- Guadalajara
The ride from Vallarta to Guadalajara takes you through the only region in the world where the blue agave used for genuine tequila is legally allowed to grow. Field after field of the spiky bluish gray plant lined the highway, and the horizon. More... + 4 - 3 | § ¶2/4/2007 -- San Blas
I really had no plan as to where I would head or what I would do upon my return to Mazatlàn, and so on a whim I turned south and scooted down to San Blas. I had stayed there last year and remembered it as a congenial town. A few hours later, I pulled straight up to the same hotel as last year and even got the same room (cheaper price, oddly enough).
It just so happens that I arrived on the eve of El dìa de San Blas, the town's biggest celebration for their patron saint. There was a parade with raucous singing and loads of fireworks. The noise wouldn't die down until after 4am. I had a tasty dinner at the Cafe Wala Wala, and the very same waiter as last year also remembered me. This was getting weird.
Tomorrow I would head south towards Puerto Vallarta. More... + 4 - 3 | § ¶2/3/2007 -- Mazatlan
The time finally came for my friends to leave our little paradise and head back to Austin, and for me to continue on to the mainland. Out of habit, I gave the bike a once-over the day before I had to leave and immediately I noticed a nasty kink in my chain. Upon closer inspection, the master link was halfway torn apart and the chain was one twist of the throttle away from snapping. Lucky for me I noticed it in time and in a safe place. Breaking a chain on the dirt road over the mountain pass out of there would have been harrowing. More... + 4 - 4 | § ¶1/25/2002 - 2/2/2007 -- Punta Pescadero
Over the last five years we've become fairly close to a lot of the locals in the tiny village of Punta Pescadero and its larger neighbor, El Cardanal. So close in fact that we got invited to one of the neice´s wedding. She was 15, her groom to be, 19. This was a real honor for us gringos. The service was traditionally catholic, but what we were really looking forward to was the ensuing fiesta. They say the success of a Mexican fiesta is measured by the number of people thrown in jail. It is also said that the only way to ensure the newlywed´s success is to drink profusely. Me and the rest of the gringos made a quiet escape around midnight (the band was paid until 4am), but there were reports of a few locals still hanging around the fiesta until 10am the next day. More... + 5 - 3 | § ¶1/25/2007 - 2/2/2007 -- Punta Pescadero
The house we got to stay in is a vacation home for some well off acquaintences of my married friends. They let my married friends use it for their honeymoon 5 years ago and every year since they get to go back and invite the rest of us. Total cost to me for 10 days = $147.
Most days were spent sitting on the porch, sipping Pacifico's and watching the virtual Discovery Channel in HD on a lifesize screen. All of the next pics were taken directly in front of the house. More... + 3 - 3 | § ¶1/24/2007 -- La Paz
After a miserable night of being thrown around the ship's cafeteria in high seas, we finally arrived to the port of La Paz, Baja Sur. I was jumping out of my skin as I scrambled down to ship's belly to meet my XR. Good News! It had faired 100x better than I had for the night. I found the bike upright and seemingly grinning at me. We were both anxious to rip it up! More... + 5 - 2 | § ¶1/23/2007 -- Baja Ferry
At the suggestion of the security guard at the tightly sealed Baja Ferry dock, I returned promptly at 8am to purchase a ticket. I was only beat out of first in line by 50 or so very eager Mexicans. After the usual confusion with which line to get into (Mexicans are almost notorious in their aversion to lines, they prefer instead to group en masse around any point of sale), I soon had my ticket and a few hours to enjoy Mazatlàn.
I scooted back into old Mazatlàn and found a quaint cafe right near the beach for some breakfast and coffee. Behind me, I noted that there were two obvious Americans that had been ahead of me in the ferry line. My standard operating procedure is to pay other traveller's no mind until I have to.
More... + 2 - 4 | § ¶1/22/2007 -- Mazatlàn
The No-Tell Motel debacle last night helped put me in better spirits. Today was going to be a good day.
The route leaving Torreòn and heading towards Durango and then Mazatlàn took me straight through the breadth of the Sierra Madres. If this majestic mountain range was anything in the south like it was in the north, then I was in for a treat.
Heading that far west meant I would pass into Pacific standard time. An extra hour to make the ferry by 3pm. It would be tough, but there was a slight chance I could cover the 300 some odd miles by then.
More... + 3 - 4 | § ¶1/21/2007 -- Torreon
After countless dozens of border crossings with the XR I'd say I've got the knack down. Using the Columbia bridge outside of town it's easy to avoid the long lines and hassles of going into Nuevo Laredo. In less than 15 minutes I had my bike permiso and tourist visa and was set to head towards Monterrey.
I was only slightly miffed that the customs agent couldn't care less about my proper Mexican insurance paper. Imagine, after I had gone through the bother of scanning in last year's certificate, changing the expiration date in Photoshop, and then printing it out at high resolution to a perfect match of proper documentation! The nerve!
More... + 2 - 3 | § ¶1/20/2007 -- Laredo
I didn't make it into Mexico today. The weather and last minute details slowed me down, so I decided to stay the night stateside and cross first thing in the morning. What a difference a year makes! Pulling away from my house I noticed that I wasn't nervous in the slightest. Afterall, this trip should hopefully prove to be tenfold easier than the trek to Panama. But of course, only time will tell.
More... + 4 - 4 | § ¶1/19/2007 -- Departure Day
Departure Day is finally here and I am just now beginning to feel butterflies. I had planned on going west out towards Big Bend, then cross the border into Chihuahua to tackle the Copper Canyon. Latest reports have Cd. Chihuahua recieving snow later today and tomorrow while the Copper Canyon presents its own problems. Apparently everything above 7,000' is blanketed with snow, which is now melting and feeding the ravenous rivers that carved out the canyons in the first place. I have read that recent motorcyclists have had to turn back when faced with closed mountain passes and impassible rivers. The route I had planned to take involves more than one mountain pass and river crossing. My other option is to head directly south towards Monterrery and then cut over into the west. Paved highways and warmer weather are very inviting, albeit slightly less adventurous.
But first, a quick jaunt south to see my friends at AF1Racing to do a quick oil change, radiator flush and chain adjustment and I'll be on my way. Then after, will I go due south or due west? Nohing like waiting until the last minute....
I, more than anyone, am very interested to see who will win my internal debate over which route I will take to Baja. And only time will tell. Sometimes, procrastination has its benefits.
T-minus.....and GO! + 5 - 2 | § ¶1/16/2007 -- still Austin
Well, my planned date of departure has come and gone due to work issues so it looks like a slight delay is in order. Good thing I'm flexible. Like Nadia Komenich flexible.
Also Mother Nature, in her infinite wisdom, has decided to throw me a curve ball. In the form of a rare ice storm. Now, I've been through some miserable situations on the XR but riding on 1/4" of ice is not exactly something I'm prepared to do. Come on global warming!
Current date of departure: Friday, Jan 19th, 2007.
T-minus 2 days and counting.
+ 2 - 5 | § ¶12/31/2006 -- Austin
It has been exactly a year since I returned from my last whirlwind adventure to Panama. And I haven't learned a damn thing.
For some reason I thought it would be a good idea to jump on the trusty XR again and head off to parts unknown. This exodus will feature destinations in good ol' Mexico, with possibilities of Guatemala, Belize and Cuba.
Scheduled date of departure is January 14th, 2007.
T minus 15 days and counting.
What am I thinking?